The Vogue Business SS27 Global Buyer Report

Reported by Vogue.

After 440 runway shows across New York, London, Milan, and Paris, the SS27 season has delivered its verdict — and the fashion industry's buyers are, cautiously but genuinely, excited. According to Vogue, skirts are the undisputed hero of next summer: Prada's satin A-line and midi silhouettes and Dries Van Noten's collector-ready poster prints are already earmarked as sellouts before a single unit ships. Anthony Vaccarello's gilded swan song for Saint Laurent rounds out the eveningwear wishlist, with buyers calling the gold pieces "instantly iconic."

The broader trend story is a decisive pivot away from quiet luxury's long reign. Maximalism is back — but with nuance. Embellishments, structured bras, graphic tees, and lace (from The Row to Chloé) dominated the conversation, while broderie anglaise and crochet added romantic texture. Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman's SVP of the fashion office, flagged color as one of the season's most urgent themes, alongside a pervasive craftiness and romanticism that felt genuinely new rather than nostalgic. Meanwhile, waists were cinched, shoes turned increasingly avant-garde, and soft, pliable bags — folded styles and drawstring pouches at Bottega Veneta, Loewe, and Gucci — emerged as the accessory direction to watch.

Fantasy, Grounded

What made this season distinct wasn't the spectacle — it was the intentionality. Buyers across Neiman Marcus/Saks, Moda Operandi, Maison Dongliang, and Net-a-Porter independently landed on the same read: designers offered creative work they were confident would actually sell. Chloe King of Neiman Marcus and Saks noted that glamour was "grounded in reality" — pointing to Dries Van Noten, Celine, and Loewe as proof that fantasy and pragmatism aren't mutually exclusive. April Hennig of Moda Operandi put it more directly: "Fashion is fun again." Pre-orders are already spiking — Kallmeyer's grid-beaded jacket and skirt set broke records, while Conner Ives's plissé separates and Ralph Lauren's patterned silk jackets are tracking as top performers out of New York.

Paris remained the most commercially powerful stop — unsurprising, given its concentration of major houses — but New York earned genuine enthusiasm, with buyers citing its energy and optimism as a close second. The Shanghai-based buying team at Maison Dongliang offered perhaps the most precise articulation of the season's aesthetic thesis: glamour achieved not through excess but through extreme material contrast handled with restraint — an antique lace cardigan over a relaxed camisole, embroidered silk alongside cargo pants. The Row, Dries Van Noten, and Khaite were their benchmarks. Across every market, the appetite for "elevated essentials" — things that feel special without requiring effort — was consistent and loud.

SS27 is a season for women who want more from their clothes without being lectured about it — more color, more texture, more personality — and the industry finally seems ready to deliver.

Read the original at Vogue.