Tom Ford Pre-Fall 2026 Menswear

Reported by Vogue.

Haider Ackermann has never needed conventional access to make an impression. The designer once staged a menswear show in near-total darkness and asked the audience to smell the clothes — and the industry loved him for it. Now, according to Vogue, he's applying similarly oblique logic to his pre-fall 2026 work at Tom Ford: no runway, no interview, no direct line to the designer. Just lookbooks and attributed quotes. Somehow, it's enough.

The womenswear — Ackermann calls his subjects "creatures," which tells you everything — is built on silhouette, texture, and a very specific kind of danger. A plastic raincoat paneled in brown leather exposed the finance-bro geometry of a pinstripe underneath. A camel coat with rolled shoulders sat over double-breasted suiting, finished with what can only be described as assassin's gloves. All-leather looks in caban and moto cuts were styled to be worn directly against the skin. Midi-dresses in lavender silk and mustard wool were cut to follow the hip. Even a sequined legging paired with a black rugby knit and loafers — Ackermann's apparent riff on Erewhon athleisure — landed with complete conviction. (The loafers, for the record, also came as slides with oversized shearling.)

The Voyageur

Menswear operated under the descriptor "voyageur," which in practice meant birdseye suiting, painstakingly washed denim, and sensually fitted leathers traveling fluidly back toward the women's wardrobe. Ackermann cited a "whiff of British uptightness" as intentional — and you could feel it in the re-engineered Prince of Wales check. Elsewhere, robe coats, cravat-matched double-breasteds, and oat-toned jersey leisurewear leaned toward something warmer: a Como playboy with nowhere urgent to be.

What unified both sides of the collection — the jewel tones, the footwear, the slender, deliberate sexuality — was a quietly precise act of house archaeology. Ackermann isn't ignoring Tom Ford's Gucci years; he's using them as a tuning fork. That era remains fashion's most potent Proustian trigger, and he's smart enough to let the reference work without turning the whole thing into a costume.

When you can smell a collection through a PDF, the clothes are doing something right.

Read the original at Vogue.