Undercover Resort 2027 Menswear

Reported by Vogue.

There is a version of the 1990s that never really left — it just went underground, resurfaced in Supreme drops, and eventually got absorbed by every fast-fashion brand with a flannel shirt and a nostalgia problem. Jun Takahashi knows this. His Undercover Resort 2027 menswear collection doesn't romanticize the decade so much as autopsy it, according to Vogue, pulling back the skin on the generic archetypes — the stadium jackets, the Dickies, the Gap-coded normcore — to find out what made them feel so charged in the first place.

The references are unmistakable: Larry Clark's unsentimental lens, Jenny Holzer's text-as-weapon, '90s skate and grunge, a faint trace of surf culture. But Takahashi isn't in the business of straight revival. The collection's sparse press note gestured toward "subtle disruptions," and that restraint in language was deliberate — because the clothes themselves did the talking. A military field jacket crossed with a PT hoodie. Unexpected pocket placement. Free-association doodle graphics. The word "Memory" tangled up in illustration across multiple pieces. The theme, "The Honest Liar," stamped in mirrored text — readable only in reverse, if you know to look.

Undercoverisms, Explained (Barely)

Takahashi was unavailable to speak about the collection, which feels somehow correct. His work has always operated like a semi-private diary — legible enough to pull you in, cryptic enough to keep you out. The layered annotations and visual tics read as someone else's interior monologue: intimate, partially decipherable, a little unsettling. This is the Undercover signature — applying psychological friction to clothes that, stripped of context, are almost aggressively plain. Overshirts. Coach jackets. Cargo pants. Baggy shorts. Striped button-downs. Wide trousers. Scribbled-on sneakers that appear to be Vans. Slogan socks.

Without the undercurrents, this would be a very good basics collection. With them, it becomes something closer to an argument about what clothes carry — memory, attitude, the specific weight of a generation's experience pressed into a garment type until it means something beyond itself. That's Takahashi's real project, in both his men's and womenswear: animating the apparently inert, finding the live wire inside the ordinary.

The strongest collections don't ask you to decode them completely — they just leave you certain that something is there, and that's exactly what this one does.

Read the original at Vogue.